Ramón Julián Puigblanque

Ramón Julián Puigblanque
Personal information
Born (1981-11-09) November 9, 1981
Spain
Height 159 centimetres (5 ft 3 in)
Weight 48 kilograms (106 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing
Highest grade
Updated on 18 April 2013.

Ramón Julián Puigblanque (also known as Ramonet, which means little Ramon in Catalan language; born November 9, 1981 in Vic, Barcelona, Spain) is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in lead climbing competitions. He won two World Championships, in 2007[2] and 2011,[3] two European Championships, in 2004[4] and 2010[5] and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010.[6] He has also climbed many routes of 9a (5.14d) and harder.

Biography

He started climbing when he was a child with his parents[7] and competed in senior categories from 2001. On November 17, 2002, he took his first victory and first podium in the Lead World Cup, in Kranj, last stage of the 2002 season.[8]

On March 8, 2003, he hit the headlines with the first free ascent of La Rambla extension, Siurana, one of the first 9a+ (5.15a) in history and the highest grade at that time.[9] In the same year he ended the Lead World Cup in second place with three wins, two seconds and two podiums finishes. The Cup was won by Alexandre Chabot, with five wins and two seconds.[10]

In 2004 he won the gold medal at the European Championships in Lecco, Italy.[4]

On May 29, 2006, he succeeded to onsight the 8c (5.14b) route Suma O in Cuenca, Spain. Puigblanque became the fourth person ever to have onsighted 8c after Yuji Hirayama, Tomáš Mrázek and Patxi Usobiaga.[11][12]

In 2007 he took his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain,[2] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[13]

In 2010 he won his first Lead World Cup title, with three wins and a second place[6] and took his second gold medal at the European Championships in Imst, Austria.[5]

In 2011 he won his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy[3] and ended the Lead World Cup in second place.[14]

On October 11, 2011, he became the third person ever to have onsighted 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga and Adam Ondra, with the onsight of The Crew in Rifle, Colorado, realized a few days after competing in the Boulder stage of the World Cup.[15][16]

Number of medals in the World Cup

Puigblanque competing at 2007 Rock Master

Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2001
2002 1 1
2003 3 2 2 7
2004
2005 2 1 1 4
2006 2 1 3
2007 1 3 4
2008 1 1 2
2009 1 1
2010 3 1 4
2011 2 3 2 7
2012 3 1 4
2013 1 1 2
Total 19 13 7 39

References

  1. "Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain". rockandice.com. 4 April 2013. Retrieved 11 May 2013.
  2. 1 2 "IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results". planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  3. 1 2 Vinicio Stefanello. "Final Lead Men report". arco2011.it. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  4. 1 2 "UIAA European Championship - Lecco (ITA) 2004". ifsc-climbing.org. 27 June 2004. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  5. 1 2 Vinicio Stefanello (21 September 2010). "European Championship 2010, the results". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  6. 1 2 "Ramón Julián, campeón de la Copa del Mundo" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 15 November 2010. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  7. Xavier Maduell (December 2010). "Entrevista a Ramon Julián" (in Spanish). feec.cat. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  8. "UIAA Worldcup - Kranj (SLO) 2002 - Result: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 17 November 2002. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  9. "Ramonet y La Rambla, 9a+" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 17 March 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  10. "UIAA Climbing-Worldcup 2003: MEN lead". ifsc-climbing.org. 31 December 2003. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  11. Dougald MacDonald. "Ramonet Onsights 5.14b". climbing.com. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  12. "Ramonet, 8c a vista" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 31 May 2006. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  13. "World Cup Lead 2007 won by Usobiaga and Vidmar". planetmountain.com. 20 November 2007. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  14. "Puigblanque reigns in Spain, along with Eiter, Kim and Markovic". planetmountain.com. 29 November 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  15. "Ramon Julien Puigblanque 8c+ on-sight". planetmountain.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
  16. "Ramon Julián escala 8c+ a vista con 'The crew', en Rifle (EE.UU)" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 13 October 2011. Retrieved 6 June 2013.
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