Kim Ja-in
Jain Kim in Vienna, 2010 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | South Korea | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born |
Goyang, South Korea | September 11, 1988|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Residence | Ganbuk-gu, Seoul, South Korea | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 153 centimetres (5 ft 0 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 42 kilograms (93 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Website |
jainkim | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | Sport climbing (Lead climbing and Bouldering) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on 5 December 2014. |
Jain Kim (Hangul: 김자인, born 11 September 1988) is a professional climber. She is mainly active in lead climbing and bouldering competitions. She won the Lead Climbing World Cup three times (2010, 2013, 2014), the Lead Climbing World Championship once (2014), and the Rock Master once (2010, Lead discipline).
Jain Kim also successfully climbs outdoors. In 2014, she redpointed her first routes graded beyond 8b+; namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.
Biography
Born into a family of mountain-dwellers and climbers,[1] Jain Kim began climbing when she was 12 years old, in 2001. When she was 16, she started competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and since 2006 she also participates in the Bouldering World Cup.
After a few years, her talent became evident. In 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009 and 2010 she won the Lead Climbing Asian Championship. In 2008, she also won the Bouldering Asian Championship. In 2009, she managed to rank second in the Lead Climbing World Cup,[2] second in the Lead Climbing World Championship,[3] second in the World Games (Lead), and third in the Rock Master (Lead).[4]
In 2010 she won the lead climbing competitions both in the Rock Master[5] and the World Cup.[6] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by ranking first in five out of six stages, namely those held in Xining, Chuncheon, Puurs, Huaiji, and Kranj. The only World Cup stage that Jain Kim did not win in 2010 was the first one, held in Chamonix. In 2013 and 2014 she won the Lead Climbing World Cup again, each year by getting four gold medals out of eight events.
In May and June 2014 she redpointed her first routes on rock graded beyond 8b+, namely Bibita Biologica (8c) and Reini’s Vibes (8c/8c+), both in Arco, Italy.
On September 14, 2014, three days after turning 26, she achieved an extraordinary victory at the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she managed to ascend (on-sight) all of the routes attempted in the qualifications, semifinal, and final.
Ranking
World Cup
2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 25 | 18 | 28 | 14 | 18 | 2 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
Boulder | - | - | 36 | - | 50 | 5 | 12 | 7 | 10 | 29 | - | - |
World Championships
2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 32 | 8 | 2 | 2 | 2 | 1 |
Boulder | 12 | 45 | 17 | 11 | 5 | - |
World Games
2005 | 2009 | 2013 | |
---|---|---|---|
Lead | 4 | 2 | 2 |
Rock Master
2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 3 | 1 | - | - | 2 |
Duel | - | - | 5 | - | 3 |
Asian Championships
2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | - | 1 |
Boulder | - | - | 2 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | - | 1 | - | - |
Number of medals in the World Cup
Lead
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2004 | ||||
2005 | ||||
2006 | ||||
2007 | 1 | 1 | ||
2008 | ||||
2009 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
2010 | 5 | 5 | ||
2011 | 5 | 1 | 1 | 7 |
2012 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 6 |
2013 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 7 |
2014 | 4 | 2 | 6 | |
2015 | 3 | 3 | ||
Total | 25 | 9 | 4 | 38 |
Boulder
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2006 | ||||
2007 | ||||
2008 | ||||
2009 | 1 | 1 | ||
2010 | 2 | 2 | ||
2011 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 1 | 1 | 4 | 6 |
Personal life
She is married to Oh Younghwan, who is a firefighter of Seoul Fire Services and writer.[7][8]
See also
- IFSC Climbing World Cup
- IFSC Climbing World Championships
- Rock Master
- Sport climbing at the World Games
References
- ↑ Auriana Beaute. "Jain Kim's Profile". Retrieved 5 December 2014.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (16 November 2009). "Lead World Cup 2009 to Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
- ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (7 July 2009). planetmountain.com, ed. "Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN)". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
- ↑ Vinicio Stefanello (6 September 2009). planetmountain.com, ed. "Eiter and Puigblanque are the kings of Rock Master 2009". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
- ↑ planetmountain.com, ed. (19 July 2010). "Rock Master 2010". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
- ↑ up-climbing.com, ed. (30 October 2010). "Jain Kim Wins the World Cup 2010". Retrieved 4 December 2014.
- ↑ Choe Kwangmo's wikipedia user page about Oh Younghwan, Retrieved 15 November 2015
- ↑ wedding invitation sent from Oh Younghwan(GLAD Hotel, 15:00, 12 December 2015). Retrieved 15 November 2015.
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Jain Kim. |
- Personal website
- Jain Kim on Facebook
- Jain Kim on Twitter
- Jain Kim on Instagram
- Profile on the IFSC website
- Profile on www.8a.nu